We had an eventful Tuesday afternoon tasting and after Bussay’s Esküvé came around, it was then the turn of their Tramini. Only one question subsequently remained: when could we visit László’s wife and daughters? In fact, we were already there by Thursday: driving through Tormafölde, Szentmargitfalva, Kányavár and Csörnyeföld; such are the fairytale names they give to the villages over there.
There are three of them: Gabriella is a lawyer and the public notary for nine tiny villages in Zala County. Beside the winery, the older daughter Dóra has also taken over her dad’s doctor’s practice. The younger daughter, Bianka, has also chosen her mother’s profession alongside wine. We talked about the future, memories, wine and Csörnyeföld to the backdrop of the unforgettable view and the five dogs on the slope of the Kövecses Hill. We could see Slovenian and Croatian hills on the horizon and below us the River Mura which provides humidity and hence the nicely kept rows of vines as far as one can see. In the meantime, Dóri speaks with a smile on her face and all four of us keep throwing the tennis ball to a Jack Russell terrier. In fact, we do this for hours on end.
It’s been a long time…
“We have five and a half hectares of grapes in one plot around the cellar. We took over the winery last August with my sister and my mother. Luckily, we have someone who is here all the time. He is our Gyuszi who has been with us for years and learnt winemaking alongside our father.”
“He was a truly special man. We learnt an awful lot from him, although, he didn’t let us go to winemaking school. He said he didn’t want us to be spoilt but he taught us everything about nature in the forest and the vineyards. My sister, Bianka, is currently learning to become a winemaker.”
How it started
“We’d been walking in the Zala hills with dad since 1987. Around that time they fell for this place. We came from Pécs and had never had vines before. Dad got wine from his patients. Once he told mum: ‘we’ve had to drink so much terrible wine recently that we’re either moving or going to start planting grapes. That’s how the story of the first artisanal winemaker started.”
What has changed
“As it’s not the same whether a baby is born in the 38th or the 40th week, we also aim at perfect ripeness. We make more mature, fuller and denser wines. We’ve only modified the style of Esküvé which is fresher and zestier now, with more Olaszrizling in the blend.”
Onwards on the Csörnyeföld
“We are polar opposites of each other in everything we do. This way we complement each other perfectly in the Bussay story. Just like the Riesling and the Olaszrizling in dad’s Esküvé.”